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When assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect well-known high-end names. Yet, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.